![]() Is this the reason some of Canon Cinema line up cameras has built in ND-filter, as the C70, C300 and so on? I mean, is it common to use ND particularly when filming? But always ask here (for an example) if I wonder what/why something didn't turn out as I thought. I think practicing is key here, practice, practice and m a k e these mistakes. As I said, I was alone and keeping every aspect in memory is a challenge (a fun one) but I guess that another couple of ND filters will come in handy. So is the solution to keep a shutter speed around 50 on ISO 100 (that will be way to under exposed on an evening shot)?īut perhaps an ISO on 800 would have cut it there. I don't know if iv'e set it to PAL or NTSC, the one that has 23.98 at least. I remember I was thinking of keeping my shutter speed around 50 on 23.98 frame rate but on f/1.2 and auto ISO bumping it straight up to ISO 800, well you can tell by yourself how that looked on a bright sunny day So the shutter speed i was forced to up to around 1000/2000 in some shots, even with the 600mm on f/4. Thank you for your answer, I really mean it. The ratio is strange, I know, but it's made for IGTV and down scaled to 1080*1920 to match the portrait modes on phones/tablets. Oh, i filmed in 4K HQ only 4:2:2 Clog 3 and applied Canon LUT afterwards and did some adjustments. Would really love to know the tips and trix to be able to make somewhat consistent footage. How do I avoid that? Should I shoot in full auto? When I switched to Auto ISO it went straight up to 800 ISO and overexposed everything and I had to adjust the aperture to around f/11 or smaller some times, that eliminated some of the subject isolation I wanted with f/1.2 and even overexposed at f/4 on my 600mm.Īll edited in Final Cut Pro (latest version), and I improvised a tune with my midi keyboard in Logic Pro. It seems like it's under artificial lightning the flickering went mad. Sometimes I was on f/1.2 with a 3 stop ND-filter and some times on f/4 or smaller with my 600mm (that doesn't have any ND filter) and even my 15-35 with and without the ND filter was used. I was shooting in manual mode, and don't know how to keep a consistent shutterspeed really. I do think it has something to do with the shutterspeed. I was using my RF 15-35 f/2.8, RF 85 f/1.2 and my EF 600 f/4 III and noticed during some shots the lights were flickering like crazy, don't really know why. It's nothing professional in all means, just me trying out the filmning capabilities with the Canon R5. It would be the a really plausible explanation since the problem occurs when the camera zooms out and, consequently, the number of pixels covering the glow diminishes.I was out the other day filming some test shots (14h work for approx. I am more and more inclined to think that the reason for the issue is the glow stripe thickness and more precisely: the screen resolution. If ‘A’ is the Amplitude Cramper value then the general time function would be: (Cos(time)+A)/(A+1). The Amplitude Cramper is a parameter damping the cosine function amplitude while preserving the maximum value of it. This is basically what I have been doing for the last two days, but did not manage to get any promising results. Apply that instance to your cubes and play around with the parameters you created. I suggest finding the correct ‘Auto-Exposure’ settings first then converting this material to an instance. I tried altering the roughness value, but it does not affect the flicker amount.Īlso, there are parameters within the material that seem to heavily affect the overall thickness and glow pulse of your material. Let me know if you found these suggestions helpful or if you need more assistance. This node “Stipples/Dithers in screen space and time with Temporal AA for things liked masked translucency or anistropic materials.” ![]() If FXAA is not giving you the quality you would like, you can also try adding the ‘DitherTemporalAA’ to the emmissive wireframe material you are having issues with. ![]() ![]() Anything above ‘100’ will be considered super sampling (slower but higher quality). Try changing the ‘Screen Percentage’ of the Temporal or FXAA method. This ensures that you do not have large variations in settings like your Emmissive glow.Ī couple of things you can try if you feel like the ‘Anti-Aliasing’ settings will be the something you would like to play around with to get your expected result. Generally you want to have your Auto-exposure set up first and build your materials off of that lighting information. It provides a cleaner reflection, but at the slight cost to performance.Īs for the specularity for some of your materials, the engine default is around 0.6, and setting it to a higher or lower value might yield undesirable results. For reflections you typically want to have Temporal AA on because of how this Anti-Aliasing method samples your scene.
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